Savoir

  Know the difference between irritation and an allergy. When people get a reaction, the first thing most think is, “OMG I have an allergy!” A good general rule of thumb is: if it burns, it's indicative of an irritation, while itching is usually a sign that you're having an allergic reaction. If you're trying something new, it might be a particular ingredient or compound that's causing the issue, it might be too strong for you. Dry air can also cause your skin to become dry and itchy, when we add a new product to the combination, it can also trigger a reaction. If the product has expired, it may not hold the ingredients in the same way, which may cause a reaction. In other words, once the chemical bonds of a product break down, the ingredients aren't suspended in the same way which means something you've used for years can suddenly turn on you. Always check for the expiration date on products. If your product is older than twelve months, it's probably time to get rid of it. Be mindful of where you keep your products. Constant change in temperature can also affect the ingredients. If you’re having a reaction or discomfort stop using it, stop using everything. You don’t want to start applying other products on top and making homemade soothing potions and lotions. The goal is to reduce the inflammation. For some that maybe using 1% hydrocortisone, some may also take Advil or Benadryl. If it's itching, then it’s a little more serious. You can always go see your dermatologist and have them diagnose if it’s a true allergy or just an irritation.

  Humectants (hygroscopic) work by pulling water from the dermis to the epidermis. This process increases the level of moisture in the stratum corneum. If the humidity is over 70% humectants can even draw water vapor form the air to help moisturize the skin. They are added to products to mimic the role of natural hydrophilic humectants in the stratum corneum. The unique structure of the stratum corneum of the skin contributes to its function as a barrier to water loss and the external harsh environment. The injury to this barrier by the environment and common irritants with the resulting loss of water from the skin is the main reason for the development of dry skin or irritant dermatitis. Moisturizers containing humectants can help to increase the hydration of the skin and possibly repair/restore the barrier through use of chemicals that are similar to the skin’s natural moisturizing factors or occlusion of the skin to prevent water loss. There is a large variety of very different compounds providing moisturizing effects including proteins, acids, polysaccharides, and various small molecules (e.g. glycerine, sorbitol, urea, aloe vera etc.). Synthetic Humectants Synthetic humectants are able to lock in moisture; however, they don’t provide any nutrients or benefits to the skin. In some cases, they can end up drying the skin over long-term use. It’s always a question of percentage and use. PEGs Silicones Butylene Glycol Urea Tremella extract Sorbitol Dicyanamide Sodium PCA Sodium lactate Natural Humectants They serve as a dual purpose, drawing moisture to the surface of the skin while enhancing the skins own hydrating ability. (It can be confusing as glycerin and hyaluronic acid may be derived from animal sources, although most are vegan synthetic versions). Lecithin Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) Glycerin Hyaluronic acid Aloe Vera Honey Seaweed Beeswax (often used in lip balms)

    Many question us as to why we don’t use beautiful jars. Honestly, I get it; however stability-proof packaging is vital if the formula is to work as effectively as it possibly can for your skin. Moisturizer textures can be so luscious and tempting! But it's not really a good idea to stick your fingers into a jar. Doing so, can contaminate the formula with bacteria that is invisible to the naked eye. Even if you've just washed your hands (one in three people carry the staph virus on their skin!), and even if the formula contains preservatives (which may not be strong enough to overcome a colonization). Bacterial contamination can be a trigger for acne, irritation and infection. If you're prone to atopic dermatitis/eczema, you should be especially careful, as staph is the most common bacterial trigger. Bacteria can also change the pH of the formula, potentially rendering it less stable and less effective. All of this is especially important if you're using natural or GREEN products, which tend to use fewer preservatives. YOU absolutely need to make sure there's at least something in there to preserve it! Anything that contains water (which is most moisturizing creams) should NOT be "preservative-free." Research makes it clear that many of the best ingredients for skin, including antioxidants and age-management ingredients like Vitamin C and retinol easily breakdown in the presence of air (oxidization). Essentially, opening a jar lets air in, causing these important ingredients to begin deteriorating, becoming less and less effective with each use. Some of the most fragile ingredients for oxidation include: Vitamin C Retinol Green tea Polyunsaturated oils Either way, no matter which ingredients and packaging you choose, don't hang onto your products forever. Any creams older than one year should be recycled, and your most active products, like vitamin C and retinol, should be used up within 6 months!